Limpopo's Magoebaskloof Hotel - Good, better, best!

There's a yearning that we feel for things less sterile, stronger in some of us than others. City life has its perks, obviously, but the bright lights soon dim and the vibrant sounds become a thing of diminishing beauty..

As a consequence and whenever possible, we hit the road less traveled, usually on week-ends. So that's the why but what's with the owl (Pearl-spotted Owlet for the 'twitchers'); why Magoebaskloof and where is that anyway?

Rushing from pillar to post or from city to lodge is pretty pointless. We don't do it.


Meandering through the countryside for the sake of meandering; the golden fields, green trees and country houses just a subconscious veneer in lazy stupor, must eventually grind too. That is, of course, unless you stop regularly, widen the senses and harness the power of peace from the dust on your shoes. Some people do just that and appreciate the scenery for what it is. Kudos to them. We prefer to do things a little differently.

We love to travel for the wanderlust is strong in both of us but more so, we're passionate about birds. Birds through binoculars do just fine but birds in the hand are so much better.. As 'citizen scientists' we catch, ring (SA terminology) or band (US) [- a steel ring is attached, usually on the leg, for record purposes] and collect data from as many birds as possible. The data is collated in the field, centrally analysed [@ the University of Cape Town] and relied on for conservation purposes. We do so countrywide; internationally too. So that explains the owl.

In our winter (June to August), which is generally mild and dry, particularly inland, the vegetation dries and in some cases, dies. Food becomes scarce. Birds either migrate internationally or regionally in search of opportunity. Regional migration is usually in an easterly direction away from the very dry western districts. Magoebaskloof lies in the north east on the misty Limpopo escarpment and is characterised by both indigenous and exotic forest, clear mountain streams and in some areas, high-altitude grasslands. There's natural food aplenty for both mammal & bird. So that explains Magoebaskloof.

Most visitors to the region prefer the accommodation options at nearby Haenertsberg which offers an eclectic mix of old and new. We however and for our purposes at least, prefer the Magoebaskloof Hotel. With an idyllic setting and misty ambiance, the buildings take on a charm which modern options never offer and in winter, log fires warm the soul.




Closely guarded by the King Makgoba statue and recently absorbed and marketed under the Orion banner, this old lady seemingly enjoys a refreshing new lease on life. Genuine hospitality, acquired over sixty years, equips the front-line staff and kitchen with an appreciation for their guests and this is the abiding memory. Fail to appreciate that gift and the hotel is just another aging Queen of Hearts left too long at the piano.

Precariously balanced atop the escarpment with sweeping views across the valley where the vista is reward enough for even the most jaded of travelers, Magoebaskloof Hotel is still the local favorite. Friends meet on cold nights in the local pub surrounded by memories of activities past. Genuine, belly-aching laughter echoes in the hallways. Pretentious ceremony and bling-believe is not welcomed here. Wit and charm wins the beer.

Early morning rains (unseasonal) settled the dust, an earthy smell.

Rates are fair, rooms are palatial and the facilities are adequate for those who rate these things. Ask the right questions at the right time of the year and enjoy the Log Fire special at an all inclusive rate, meals included, equivalent to a meal for two in up-town Johannesburg. The food is not an embellishment of the arts. Don't expect it to be and why should it be? It's home cooking away from home, freshly prepared by local chefs, trained not in Paris but behind a local hob. Servings are expansive and somewhat surprisingly, patrons select from an impressive a la carte menu all inclusive in the room-rate whether that be fillet, fowl or flapjack. An interesting yet uniquely delightful concept!

Not fancy. Adequate.

Breakfasts are a buffet from 'granny's table'

Look closely and the decor is hardly uniform. In fact it's decidedly odd. Old oils cling regally to freshly coated walls. Country-English clashes broadly with Afro-Asian mystique. It's truly an abomination but strangely feels quite normal here. Home baked cakes, fresh scones & strawberry jam and richly-brewed coffee are not to be missed.




So there you have it and that's Magoebaskloof Hotel. It's not fancy, nor is it fancily dressed but it's warm, charming and well worth a visit.

It's the little things that count in life....

Dew drops clinging to a blade of grass in the early-morning mists can be so much more than mere drops of water.

Lesotho triumph

There are places we find which remind us that time is eternal and our own time here, fleeting. Lesotho is such a place. We ramble on about big skies and grand scenery but Lesotho really is another world.

Measuring about 175km from top to bottom and some 220km from east to west it's about the size of Belgium. It's also the only country in the world situated entirely above 1300m. 

Mountainous highlands dominate the eastern half of the country. People are sparse here and the economy is largely subsistence. 

Lesotho vista - early winter

In winter the climate in the valley is mild but in the highlands snow and ice are common. Temperatures of -15 degrees centigrade and below are also relatively common which is why many South Africans head to the high Berg ski-slopes.

Getting to these ski-slopes on the A1 from the north west is via the spectacular Moteng Pass; a meandering affair with gentle twists and turns in the lowlands to dangerously irregular hairpin bends as the road rises in earnest towards the east. 

Cows, sheep, goats and donkeys have the right of way and in the valleys, crops dot the fields. Erosion is a serious problem and most of the indigenous fauna and flora is either locally extinct or threatened. 


Young boys pursue right of passage and in the western lowlands tend their cattle. In the highest latitudes in the east, youngsters tend the family sheep and goats. Synonymous with Lesotho culture, most of the youngsters are clad in threadbare blankets and not much more. In winter these kids safely negotiate the sub-zero temperatures by rubbing sheep-fat into their blankets; odiferous but effective.

As the A1 winds eastward the road rises in earnest and is, even in the best conditions, very treacherous. Once dubbed 'the worst road in the world', now tarred, it's still the only access road to the east for large service vehicles (Letseng diamond mine) and holiday-makers alike. Occasionally these large vehicles lose control, veer across the verge and overturn. Under those circumstances it's not unusual to wait for 5 or 6 hours whilst the vehicle is cleared; a painstaking process..

For most holiday-makers the resultant hold-up is distinctly frustrating. Even so, taking the time to enjoy a cup of coffee or a walk to the scene of the accident and interacting with Africa's most friendly people, is always rewarding. Under the most dire of circumstances very little aggression, if any, is prevalent among the local people.

As the road ascends, ice crystals cling to cliff-edges and streams are partly frozen. Vehicles are buffeted by the wind channeled through the pass. This physical assault and the views which stretch from one side of the world to the other, overwhelm the senses.

From the summit of Moteng Pass (2850m) the road descends gently. In winter it's fiercely cold.

Two establishments service the ski-slopes. The first along the road is Oxbow Lodge, some 10km from the Moteng summit. First impressions are poor; lasting impressions are dreadful. Avoid if possible. Afriski, some 15 km further along the road and near the Mahlasela Pass (3200m), is a much better option.

Oxbow Lodge - July 2012

These two resorts are usually booked six months in advance during the ski-season. This year was no exception and having booked too late we had to settle for Oxbow.

Privately owned since 1981 there's very little (ie: no) excuse for appalling service, bad food and dilapidated facilities. Notwithstanding, people do return.. I'm not sure why. A canteen-like food-hall plumbs new lows in hospitality. The management is inconspicuous and the staff, generally, grossly incompetent.

The picturesque Malibamatso River, against which the lodge nestles, is its only saving grace. Even that is ruined by raw sewage spilled from the lodge a little further downstream. All the rest is misery. 

If you're able to ignore the displeasure of Oxbow this part of Lesotho is really special. Waterfalls are common, rivers (above Oxbow's sewage) are pristine and the views are absolutely breathtaking.

Malibamatso River - early morning ice

It's a peaceful scene which is why it's difficult to imagine that Mother Nature is anything but benign... It's a serious miscalculation which, this time at least, caused untold strife.  

Near Oxbow Lodge - Dawn light

Lesotho is the land of 4-seasons in a day and in winter, particularly in these parts, that means, usually, a fiercely cold start, a late morning blizzard, an afternoon snow and evening ice.

South Africans, generally unequipped for extreme conditions and with variable driving experience, tend to make mistakes in extreme weather. When the wind's up and with 4x4 vehicles rushing from slope to slope, the compacted snow soon turns to ice..

As far as blizzards go this one was a monster. It arrived at 10am Saturday morning, unheralded, unannounced and with devastating effect. The world was, quite literally, painted white, ripped apart and turned upside down. Most people, happily enjoying an early ski, were caught cold...

Holiday makers flounder ahead of the storm

Fierce winds, driving snow and sub-zero temperatures had most vehicles floundering ahead of the storm. The unlucky few, too late to leave the slopes, were miraculously rescued from stranded vehicles under 3m of snow early on Sunday morning. Four South Africans survived the overnight freeze (-15 deg) in a heated car until the diesel froze by which time, fortunately, mining staff from the nearby diamond mine had lead a rescue.

Seemingly unaffected, the local shepherds bore the weather stoically.

Unbeknownst to most who fled before the storm, up ahead was worse to come. By mid afternoon racing vehicles had churned the snow to slush. The slush soon froze to ice.

This vehicle never made it off the pass

Many visitors, anticipating snow on Lesotho's slopes, had traveled from nearby South Africa for the day. Moteng Pass, some 10 km westwards, stood squarely between these revelers and the border-post. Now covered in as much as 30 cm of ice, the descent off Moteng Pass was impassible. Low cloud, mist and sleet reduced visibility to a few meters and given the abruptness of the storm, vehicles floundered west, together, in convoy.

Driving crosswinds buried the road

Some 40 vehicles, unequipped for and generally unaware of the ice on the pass, attempted the descent together.

Hopelessly out of control the lucky few spun into the cliff-side ditch and suffered little further damage. The less fortunate careened into the vehicle ahead and were themselves hit from behind. All 40 vehicles now in various states of chaos, either abandoned or tied to the roadside barrier to prevent a further slide down the pass, remained on that pass, some for as long as 72 hours. Those who wanted help were later rescued off the pass by overnight residents from the nearby lodge. A few vehicles were too dangerous to approach even on foot. By sheer miracle nobody was seriously injured; although a few suffered from hypothermia and one or two suffered a few contusions.

Freezing temperatures - dropped to -15 deg

With nowhere to go, no accommodation and the pass impassable, Oxbow was the only option for the refugees.. Unsurprisingly the management was conspicuously absent. The guests who could assist, did as much. Oxbow's staff couldn't have cared less. Women and children overflowed the bars, the lounges; anywhere they could. Later that night some were permitted to spend the night in the conference room where they collapsed, cold, panicked and exhausted. No blankets or bedding of any kind was provided.. The men, meanwhile, back at the pass, did what they could, however ineffectual.

Fortunately, conditions improved overnight and by early Sunday afternoon one or two 4-wheel drive vehicles managed the decent, some would argue a little irresponsibly. I say irresponsibly because, by their lead, lesser vehicles tried the same with disastrous consequence...

Come Monday morning, for those of us still east of Moteng Pass and thoroughly gatvol* (*... a little unhappy) with Oxbow's hospitality, it was do or slide! One way or the other we were going to get through. A team from the ORU (Offroad Rescue Unit) had arrived from South Africa late Sunday night and together with our friends from the mine, coordinated the clearing of the pass.

Top of Moteng Pass

The top of the pass is permanently in shade which hindered any thaw of the ice. By 11am more than 100 vehicles were parked at the top of the pass. Once the stranded vehicles from the days before had been safely evacuated or secured by the ORU team, every able person assisted with hand, spade or shovel to clear the ice. By the time the labour teams began to flag a grader from Letseng arrived to finish the task. Salt, also generously donated by the mine, was used to lower the freezing temperature of the ice which aided thaw.

Letseng's grader followed by the 'salt' cruiser

By 1pm (Monday) the pass was declared safe and with no small measure of relief all descended safely off the pass en route the border; one vehicle at a time and in 1st gear only.

It was the end of an unforgettable adventure. It was also testament, once more, that South Africans, of all persuasion, always pull together when faced with adversity. Most of us got our vehicles off that mountain safely. Some didn't, sadly, but we all lived to tell the tale. It could have been worse, much worse..

This vehicle we found some 600 meters further down the pass. I don't know its story..

Parys - Vredefort paradise

When we think of the Free State (a land-locked province located, roughly, in the centre of South Africa) we conjure up images of mielies (maize / corn), big skies, open spaces and friendly people. Even so, delve a little deeper and it becomes evident that there's so much more on offer than meets the eye.

Post season mielie (corn) harvest & miles of watery sky

The Vaal River - Parys nestles on the southern side of the Vaal

Off the beaten track, yet close enough to Johannesburg to make a weekend of it, lies the picturesque Free State town of Parys. Perhaps better known for its renaissance-like Afrikaner heritage and as an adventure-smorgasboard for water junkies, it's also a uniquely eclectic mix of traditional food, new money and artistic flair. 


Best showcased, visually, in its summer greens, winter's white lends itself to indoors-exploration, gourmet food delights and log fires. Nevertheless, for the hardy adventurer content to leave the ice-waters of the Vaal to mad-dogs and Englishmen, a trip to the nearby Vredefort Dome, a World Heritage site, is encouraged. Internationally acclaimed as the epicentre of Earth's most cataclysmic asteroid strike some 2.2 billion years ago and with a strike-force 450 million times greater than the Hiroshima nuclear bomb, it's a reminder, perhaps, that life is fragile and our time here, fleeting. The silence is eerie. Here mineral deposits mysteriously spin a pocket compass first north then south, never true! Nevertheless, the enlightened-few leave this place pointed duly north.. and it's in that spirit that most return to nearby Parys, refreshed, energised and open to its charms. 


Like everywhere else you've got to sift the wheat from chaff. Accommodation options are as varied as its people, catering for all but the most travel-weary. 

'Stonehenge in Africa' on the Vaal river is a popular choice for both foreign and local guests alike. At the time of writing the restaurant was closed for refurbishment. Serviced rooms and a self-catering option are offered.

A walk along the Vaal river has its architectural delights

Restaurants dot Bree Street end to end

'Hoi Polloi Bistro', best described as Afro-French eclectic, has an impeccably presented and passionate menu. It's stylish and streets better than the rest; sitting firmly on top as Bree Street's best. Elsewhere we were impressed with the cleanliness and attention to detail offered at 'Coffee and more'; breakfasts are upmarket, reasonably priced and delicious. Avoid the 'Plum Tree Cafe'. The service is panicked, the decor draws inspiration from granny's boudoir / cum pantry and unforgivably, the food is lifeless, tasteless and utterly dreary. For lunch we mistakenly opted for the country-style, home-away-from-home, hand-crafted 'pie-in-a-dish, with potato wedges'; usually reliably South African..  Masquerading as a savory dish this loveless and thoroughly forgettable quagmire of soggy, precooked pastry / filling was a nasty surprise indeed. 


Once in a while, usually by chance and a little like discovering a good truffle; a local delight is unearthed. Most often it's the ambiance of fine food or good wine or an innovative menu. Very rarely it's related to accommodation. Bricks & mortar, fine linen and manicured gardens are not uncommon, even in Parys. However, more rarely, anywhere, when moss-clad mortar, crisp linen and pretty flowers become so much more than single parts of a whole, one night morphs into a restful peace and the experience is priceless. 'Green Gables Country Estate' is uniquely so. At rates equivalent to the price of a meal for two, this owner-managed luxurious retreat is, without question, Parys' best kept secret. Catering for the discerning traveler and serviced daily, guests opt for self-catering or B&B. Parking is off-street and secure. All major cards are accepted and the venue is licensed. 

Winter frost usually renders any garden drab. Green Gables is no different.

Hidden walk-ways lend exclusivity & privacy 

Timeless & manicured

In full bloom and in season the ambiance is spectacular.

Attention to detail is guaranteed.

Wakkerstroom - Chapped, cracked and chilly.

Mpumalanga's Wakkerstroom, a remnant of its former glory, is just one of a plethora of country-towns reminiscent of days long past when farming communities gathered at the common to swap stories, share anecdotes and reaffirm friendships. Failed infrastructure, a pitted complexion and baseless architecture is, at best, an obsolescence lacking in charm. Facilities are poor, accommodation is limited and entrepreneurial spirit a wistful figment of the imagination.

Excluding 'Wetlands Country House & Sheds' which is outstanding, most accommodation options are fairly basic. Birdlife's manicured facility in the Wetland Reserve is ruggedly adequate. One or two of the better B&Bs offer something similar. Even so, most could do with a coat of paint or two.. If Wetlands is fully booked, like it was this last weekend when we arrived, you might be tempted to opt for the Wakkerstroom Country Inn. At face value it's the epitome of  the classically charming village-inn. Fireplaces, ball & claw furniture, old fishing magazines and draught on tap served in pewter tankards. Don't be fooled! It's a veritable case of Dr Jekyll & Mr Hyde! A VISA-swipe reveals rooms so dastardly that it defies belief..

Bathroom - mould & grime

Ceiling - mould & grime

Bedroom - damp & peel

Garage - filth & graffiti

Out of time; out of options and considering it was only for the night we reluctantly stayed.. If the rooms were nasty the dining area was warm & cosy. The food isn't exactly cuisine but it's well-prepared and well-presented. The locals are deliriously entertaining and the log-fire is a welcome relief from the winter chill. Before too long however, curfew is imposed (I kid you not), guests either exit or retire and the alarm activated. At 7am next day inmates are free to come and go - but not before.. It's a twilight adventure, insanely usurous, magnificently ridiculous and sadly negligent!

If the accommodation is rubbish, exploring the countryside is little short of a catharsis. Winter hues are saturated in both wetland & moor and in the hills of purple and gold. Although refreshingly chilly, the crisp air is perfect tonic for the soul. On this occasion a bout of rain settled the dust and cleansed the soul..!

Well known among the birding fraternity for its accessible grassland-specials and for its other rarities of which the localised Giant Girdled Lizard, Sapphire Bluet, Kastrolnek Widow and the very localised Wakkerstroom Geranium are just a few of many, Wakkerstroom offers the outdoorsman an unencumbered glimpse of the world as it was and it's for this reason only that many visitors return, time and time again.

Bokmakierie - one of many 

Birdlife's 'Flufftail' hide

Abandoned farmstead - more evidence of urban migration

Ossewakop a backdrop to the village at its base -  wrapped in a winter rainbow











Late afternoon is bitterly cold. Winter woolies, good company and a dram or two are welcome..

  

Unplanned eventualities...

It's virtually impossible to plan for every eventuality before departing on a cross-border trip. One such aberration occurred relatively recently on a trip to Botswana. Getting into Botswana via Stockpoort border post was easy. Getting back through the same border post into South Africa proved a trial for reasons which will become apparent.

Stockpoort / Parr's Halt is our preferred border entry for our numerous trips to Botswana. Although not centrally located it's close enough to our home in Johannesburg and the formalities are always, well, 'just formalities'. Both the South African and Botswana border officials are genial enough which gives me the opportunity to catch up on the latest weather / news and other goings-on in the area. It's a nice way to 'officially' start a Botswana bush-break. Incidentally, as an aside, don't be put off by the gravel road section just after Parr's Halt. It's only 50 odd kilometers long and the 'road's-not-so-bad'!

We had spent an idyllic two weeks in the Moremi, Savuti and Chobe regions of Botswana before returning home to South Africa via the same border-post. By way of background we were a party of four travelling in two fully-laden, luxury 4x4 vehicles. Given the nature of our trip both vehicles were extensively customised for the Botswana conditions. For those of you unfamiliar with what that would entail customising usually includes fridges, compressors, additional electrical systems, 2-way radios, water tanks, storage, roof-racks, MT tyres etc. Both the vehicles had been across borders many times before.

You'll recall we had left via Stockpoort border post some two weeks prior...

Getting through the Botswana side (Parr's Halt) was a cinch, as usual. Getting one of the vehicles through Stockpoort was also a cinch, as usual.... However we knew something was up when five (5) armed policemen exited the office in an agitated state only to descend on the second vehicle and its occupants, my elderly parents. You can imagine our confusion......  As it turns out the vehicle had FAILED clearance inspection and was in fact reported stolen. My Mom and Dad, both in their sixties, are the epitome of integrity and a lesson to everyone I know on what it means to be a 'good citizen'. Claims that their vehicle had been reported stolen and that, as its occupants, they were, by definition, it's thieves were therefore preposterous and almost amusing if it wasn't for the serious nature of the allegation. You see the vehicle was no more than a year old and had been bought, by my parents, brand new from the dealership. Since the vehicle was still in their possession they had not thought it necessary to report it stolen.... They were, so to speak, enjoying the fruits of their labours.

Although the SAPS officers, once everybody had calmed down, suspected that my parents were not the desperados the system claimed them to be, they were, however, obliged to impound the vehicle and arrest them as required by the law. Nobody could fault the policemen who were, to a man, very professional if not a little confused. No cellphone reception at the border compounded the issue. By late afternoon nothing much had changed despite numerous calls to the regional SAPS office in Ellisras, some 70 odd kilometers away. The system clearly identified the vehicle's chassis & engine number as stolen. I was 'free-to-proceed' but obviously declined. It was decided, given the circumstances and late hour, that our case would be better heard at Ellisras. All four of us were therefore transferred to Ellisras police station; my parents under armed guard and my husband and I in 'hot-pursuit' behind them in our own vehicle.

Whilst the 'stolen' vehicle was immediately impounded on our arrival in Ellisras pending further investigation, my parents were placed 'in-my-care' under house arrest as long as we all remained in Ellisras until told otherwise. Even at the late hour the Station Commander had personally taken over our 'case' which was fortunate in that he could liaise directly with the Johannesburg branch commander in charge of the investigation.

This then is the story and it's compelling...

It transpired that the vehicle had been hijacked off the delivery truck parked in the dealership's driveway. At the time the dealership's manager, hearing the commotion, grabbed his own firearm and 'engaged' the hijackers who then fled in 'our' vehicle, in peak traffic, down a main road. The intrepid dealership manager decided to pursue the hijackers in his own vehicle and continued to fire his firearm at the escaping would-be hijackers. They in turn fired wildly back. He was obviously the better shot and one round at least found its mark, punching holes through 'our' (as yet undelivered) vehicle. The hijackers, in turn, careened the vehicle over the pavement into oncoming traffic and collided with not one but two vehicles. The would-be-thieves deciding the action a little too hot for comfort, exited the vehicle and fled the scene, never to be seen again.... In the interim, unbeknownst to our intrepid dealership manager, the vehicle transport company had immediately reported the vehicle stolen and thus it remained for close on a year and MANY other trips out of the country later leading, 'eventually', to my parents arrest for armed robbery 'grand-auto'.

The vehicle had therefore been hijacked, shot at and damaged; ramped over pavements at high speed and collided head-on into oncoming traffic. The dealership recovered the vehicle and had it repaired 'on-the-quiet'. Shortly thereafter the vehicle was delivered as a new vehicle 'off-the-floor' to my unsuspecting parents happy to take delivery after a 'brief' delay. Needless to say we were released by Ellisras after 24 hours of confused misery.

Planning for every eventuality before your trip is sometimes difficult........

iSimangaliso Wetland Park - Sodwana Bay's accommodation options

Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife's accommodation options at Sodwana Bay include 10 five-bed Swiss-style log cabins; 10 eight-bed cabins; Gwalagwala, a luxurious camping site [33 stands] and other camping sites some with power points, others not.

Half our party preferred a camp site at Gwalagwala, the other half stayed in one of the five-bed cabins. Neither option is particularly cheap. In fact you could almost say that both options are exceedingly expensive. Nevertheless, any trip to the Elephant Coast more than makes up for any niggles along the way.

We were allocated No. 13 which would not be my first choice by any means. The cabin enjoys no view worth mentioning. It's cold and badly positioned drawing very little warmth from the late afternoon sun. Its really quite morose, if you like. The patio trestle table was rusted past its useful life. The chairs need replacing. Inside the furniture is dated and the lighting dingy. The freezer door wouldn't seal and the kitchen taps dripped constantly. Although the linen was clean, strangely for the three nights we were in this particular cabin neither the linen nor the towels were changed once. The cabin is supposedly serviced, which wasn't always the case. Some two or three days later we asked to be moved to a more favourable cabin and to the reception staffs' credit we were immediately accommodated. Housekeeping's Nicolas was very accommodating. Cabin No. 9 was a vast improvement. The views over the ocean and lagoon are spectacular. Late afternoon bird parties love the large tree in front of the cabin. We're all keen birders!

Unfortunately the weather proved difficult so we spent less time on the patio than we would have liked, particularly in the evening. The  plastic table was in much better condition, obviously; the chairs too. Our braai (barbecue) facilities were pitifully tied together with wire. No grid was in evidence, anywhere. We fixed that rather quickly.. Even though both the Samango & the Vervet monkeys are a nuisance, raiding bins and kitchens too, there is little reason why plastic bags and other garbage should be scattered throughout the coastal forest in and around the cabin. We fixed that too.. Inside the cabin the furniture was much more suitable except for the bar-stools which had the bracing bars on the legs missing. Our children, who sat on the stools are young fortunately but we fixed those too.. Besides the braai facilities the two major gripes were the front door which wouldn't stay latched unless locked and the absence of hot water on more than one occasion. The cabin's hot water is gas heated and as ever the gas always runs out at 8pm just before the evening shower... Housekeeping attended to the gas the next morning but not the door. The five-sleeper has two bedrooms, the main suite with a king-size bed which unfortunately impedes the opening of the cupboard. The private door onto the patio is a good idea. The other bedroom, designed principally for children, obviously, has a single bed and a bunk-bed. The rooms are clean and functional. Amazingly none of the linen or the towels were changed for a week until we insisted otherwise. The kitchen is adequate and is comprehensively equipped. The microwave proved a mystery to us all and needs replacing! Nevertheless, the cabin is cosy and adequate.

The rest of the party preferred their own comforts and camped at Gwalagwala, the so-called luxury camping site. Even though the sites are more than adequate there are no obviously discernable differences between the Gwalagwala sites and the 'normal' sites except for price..?

Anybody who has ever been to Sodwana will usually note if not complain about the horde of people offering camp-cleaning services for the duration of your trip. Even so, the few people who were employed seemed pleasantly competent. I mention this because the KZN camping staff, officially employed, were woefully incompetent. The ablution blocks were generally grubby. The showers had no hot water for days. Our allocated site had no braai-facilities. The camp sites themselves were never raked nor cleaned. Perhaps KZN expects their guests to provide their own labour...

Sodwana Bay is NOT a shore fisherman's dream.

Fishermen take note! Sodwana Bay is OVER-RATED. It is, however, important to differentiate between shore-angling and offshore angling. 

My family and I, all keen fishermen, spent the last two weeks at Sodwana in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park. From the outset the weather proved difficult. The water temp. of 20 degrees didn't help too much; neither did the easterly wind. Offshore fishing was satisfactory. Admittedly fishing in the winter has its challenges. Nevertheless we did land a 125kg Blacktip reef shark and some decent couta [King Mackerel]; all on live-bait. Bonita were plentiful and we missed a sailfish or two on the rapalas. Other boats landed a few Yellowfin Tuna and some decent Wahoo. Incidentally couta are, in my opinion, the finest eating fish in the world. Marlin are generally absent at this time of the year. Quite rightly then, Sodwana is considered a world-class offshore angling destination. Shore or surf-angling off its beaches is another story entirely!

In years gone by it wasn't a rarity to catch large kingfish in the bay from off the beach. Sight-casting to feeding  GTs with a popper or drop-shot, on light-tackle is fishing second to none! Fishing at night is usually the only way to fish the Zululand waters. Sliding for large inedibles ie: skates and sharks is still possible in the bay at night given the correct conditions and before the boats launch at dawn. One or two smaller kingfish are still taken. At any other time [ie: when the first sunrays hit the water until sunset] the fishing is dreadful. No amount of scratching with either bait or plastic in and around the bay or further south off the ledges yields even a single bite. Small kingfish and wave-runners are entirely absent. Bonefish are non-existent. We did land over the course of two weeks one or two undersized shad on small spoons north of the bay. 

Fishing improves 20kms further up the coast and down south near Cape Vidal. Anybody who tells you that fishing from the shore in and around Sodwana is anything more than rubbish probably hasn't been there for a while.