Our last & final leg, in central Namibia & on her west coast, was perhaps a fitting end to what had been a fantastic year. Namibia stands first & foremost in the countries we love most. Burn't skies, open fields & singing sands call to us.
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Our suite at the Hansa Hotel
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A half-dozen, unaccounted-for species secured our flight from South Africa's
OR Tambo to Namibia's
Hosea Kutako International, a large skip east of Windhoek, the country's capital. A more convenient flight would have been a few minutes further westwards to Walvis Bay. Nevertheless, the range restricted Herero Chat & the rain-seeking / desert-loving Ruppell's Korhaan necessitated an inland
stop & go. We added both in quick succession, in two uneventful sessions,
en route Swakopmund's
Hansa Hotel, our desert home away from home. Germanic influence; a local
ja, das ist gut attitude; seasonal holiday fever & an outdoors-orientated lifestyle cements this coastal town's status as Namibia's premiere holiday destination.
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Migrant waders clog the salt pans, tidal zones & nearby tundra-like vegetation
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If a free-flowing piste down the autobahn-like aisles at the local
Food Lovers Market is your passion, then December is
not the time of year to travel. Notwithstanding the urban crush, December is also rarities season & as the drapes fell on our year we hoped for nothing less than an encore performance. We weren't disappointed.
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Pygmy Right Whale - beached in the lagoon
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Joined most mornings [
afternoons & evenings too] by local resident Mark Boorman, friend & part-time banding mentor, we were assured of something special. In fact we had a whale of a time.
We were after three specific birds for our 800 Challenge. Wading through a sea of waders for three specific individuals takes a keen eye & some experience. Wilson's Phalarope, seen intermittently since the start of the season would, as suspected, pose a challenge. As it turned out the Wilson's stayed in the bag, unseen.
In the interim we had recorded Red-necked Phalarope in the lagoon & Dune Lark at nearby Rooibank. One special remained. Earlier in the year we had missed this particular bird & were seemingly well on track to do the same again. Fairly regular to date, this repeat-vagrant had, for selfish reasons no doubt, made itself scarce the instant we disembarked.
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| Alisha & Mark B trying to relocate a probable American G Plover |
If worms hate 1st-call then, by rights, they have good reason. Finding visiting avian guests, eager to explore the unfamiliar, usually means a wake-up call sometime before the sanity bell. Walvis Bay is no different. We'd arrived most mornings in time for morning tea which secured a vacant lot. Getting to the lagoon on time, however, proved more rewarding & on our last morning in the field we recorded our final species for our 800 Challenge,
Pacific Golden Plover; a magnificent likeness of himself, in non-breeding garb & a lifer to boot. Fitting; unscripted & more than a little poetic.
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| A. Penguin - in moult. Escorted, by rental, to Hotel Boorman |
As an aside, Mark introduced us to the world of
long-distance avian travel. We spent a day scrutinising waders & terns for foreign-flagged / ringed / banded individuals ie: caught & marked for identification in the field. The foreign-caught, long-distance migrants are also the most intriguing. By
end-of-day we had successfully identified a handful of birds. One particular tern, as it turns out, was originally processed in Scotland, some 9000 km further north, undeniable evidence that Scotland, is in fact, the very hub from which all good things emanate..! It's an amazing feat of endurance in itself & a confirmation, more importantly, of the role that Southern Africa plays in the seasonal lives of many long-distance migrants, drawn from all around the globe.
For those who have followed our exploits what would our story be if we had no tale to tell?
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| Poking the stupid stick at the gods! |
Poking the stupid-stick at the gods is something I do well, clearly. One poke is not as good as another & this time I thought I'd give it
stick. At the start of our year we acquired a diesel A-class Mercedes from which we'd do most our local birding. The rationale was simple; for a simpleton that is. We'd keep our carbon footprint to a minimum... No point ruining the world chasing the ridiculous, yes? In hindsight, it's a bowl of hot air! We've traveled further than a
godwit's bill & the reasoning is akin to a bag-full of sticky-pie & a diet soda.. but I digress.
Notwithstanding the frail-nature of good intent, we ignored the rows of
gas-guzzling 4x4s, vehicles for the insensitively boorish & secured, instead, the mechanical services of a rented front-wheel-drive sedan. As the manual reads - adequate on tarred surfaces or salt-hardened gravel but, like all Toyotas, somewhat skittish in the dunes..
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| A trip highlight - Dune Lark nest |
Dune Lark happened to be on the morning menu. To secure the lark we'd need to travel a touch inland to nearby Rooibank, a haven for sand-experts & the closest landmark to the bird in question. To get from Rooibank to the red-sand habitat is a
walk of a 1000 meters. We thought we'd drive.. Her words resonate in my left ear still! WTH soon became WTF! The
adequate on tar proved
inadequate in sand. Mechanically belly-beached, 4 wheels lazy in the desert breeze & less upwardly mobile than might have been expected came, at the time, as a complete surprise to me
... Fortunately, as it turned out, we'd saved ourselves a measured 23 paces to the nearest dune; an Eskom-like energy-saving during a summer thunderstorm black-out. Small mercies as they say.. We walked the remaining 981 meters to the dune & found the larks, on a nest. We walked the 981 meters back to immobility & spent the next two hours digging, cursing & larking about under the chassis.
If Namibia is nothing else then it's a country of unmatched hospitality & good people. From the nearby Rooibank hamlet two
German/Afrikaans-language [preference]
sand-experts approached our sand-spit & found me in full display. I was immediately addressed in well-spoken English, relieved of the car-keys & in soothing, single-syllable
west coast tones encouraged to take a seat under the nearest shady tree. The sun had, no doubt, found a chink in my thinking -cap. They were taking no chances, evidently. I chewed, somewhat thoughtfully, on the cork clogging my senses, put there by my own wife,
familia no less..! Is there no honour left in this cruel world?
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| Damara Tern - the week's highlight |
I'm not too displeased to report the untimely demise of not one but two '
nooit-nie (can't break)' snatch-straps before the vehicle was eventually recovered a third strap & a short snooze later.
Namibians know their sand. We live & we learn!
