Showing posts with label mpumalanga. Show all posts
Showing posts with label mpumalanga. Show all posts

Monday, 11 February 2013

Professor Spisher's Short-tail

We're into week 7 of our 800 Challenge which we kicked off this last weekend on a frenetic trip to Mpumalanga. We based ourselves in Dullstroom, a decision based on the proximity of a particular special rather than one of convenience. Most of the birds we were after were a little further afield.

This time we were dry; a pleasant change from weekends past. Although sulky skies threatened spirits, we had a ball. We were joined on this trip by Martin Benadie, a quietly spoken, unassuming gentleman whose field-knowledge is unsurpassed. If phishing or pishing is an art, then Martin's the modern-day Da Vinci; a veritable avian-vocab professor. This Doolittle-like guru easily interprets the dawn-chorus by pishing / phishing or even spishing the words 'Make me!' to any bird with the temerity to shout 'Bugger off! This protea's mine!' We had unrivaled views of ALL the specials we were after. In short, Martin's a credit to himself and an unheralded character in the local birding community dominated by self-appointed pseudo-aficionados.

Whilst on the subject there are many heated debates on the effect playback (playing of recorded bird calls to entice birds closer) has on the welfare of the targeted species. Some claim that the frequency or volume of playback is the clincher rather than playback itself. Others will defend their right to use technology any way possible to 'get-that-bird' whilst others rabidly hate the concept entirely. Although I have my own opinions, perhaps sanity insists on 'less-is-more' where minimalism, seemingly, has become old-fashioned.

First order of business: Short-tailed Pipit; a prized bird which moves extensively / erratically outside of the Oct-Feb breeding period when it is more readily found. Finding them now rather than then is key. We'd arrived on site early enough to view the early-morning aerial display these birds are famed for. Although the birds were vocally active, we couldn't pick them out against the backlit glare. Somewhat frustrated and largely discounting Alisha's 'it's calling down here in this water-logged drainage line' we retired hurt for a simple ham sandwich and tea. The usual 'shall we try again later' debate raged around the tea-slurping circle. When order was restored and the ham safely stowed, an informal glance at the 'down here - drainage line' revealed a Short-tailed Pipit in all its circling glory. From our slightly elevated box-seat position, no more than 50 paces from centre-stage, we were treated to unparalleled views of a bird I rank first in the short-grassland-division. I have taught Alisha well.....

The next few hours we spent debating a 'far-off, fish-carrying, short-grassland-loving Osprey' which I added not.... much to the chagrin of the visiting team. In between punches, as the debate raged on, we added Lazy, Croaking, Cloud, Levaillant's, Wailing and Wing-snapping Cisticola. Add Neddicky to that lot and that makes 7 Cisticolidae in a single sitting; greedy some might say. Over the ensuing late-morning and early afternoon sessions we recorded Gurney's Sugarbird; Greater Double-collared, Malachite and Amethyst Sunbird; African Harrier-Hawk; Alpine Swift; Dark-capped Yellow and Broad-tailed Warbler. No amount of begging / cajoling would coax out the localized Red-winged Francolin for ticking.

Second order of business:  Cape Eagle-Owl; a prized bird and that's all that needs to be said by way of introduction. In the interests of all involved, let's just say that a two-hour slog & sit session up The Secret Hill revealed .... Nothing! With numbed bums and failing nerves as the goblins of the impending night echoed in the valley across which we had, until now, held unflinching vigil, one last look under the ledge we were sitting on revealed a Cape Eagle-Owl in unsurprised splendor. The 'do you think it will hear us over there on the opposite cliff?' debate seemed a little trivial....To say we were pleased with our work was an understatement.

If Saturday was special, Sunday was a close-run second. We'd allocated the early-morning slot to a tour & breakfast session at Pilgrim Rest's nearby Mt Sheba, a Forever Resorts resort. Here we recorded Narina Trogon, Orange Ground Thrush, Olive Woodpecker, Grey Cuckooshrike, White-starred Robin and other forest specials. Green Twinspot called once on the descent into the resort but we were unsuccessful in our attempts to locate the bird. Whilst we found most of the targeted species, birding was tough to say the least, which hastened our early exit a little after breakfast. En route our second scheduled route of the day up the gravel road off Pilgrim's Rest to Bourke's Luck in the nearby Blyde River Canyon, we stopped off at Crystal Springs for a 'look & see'. We looked and we saw - Southern Tchagra! We had magnificent views of two very vocal birds, easily in this year's Top-10.

To say we dipped on African Finfoot over the next few hours would do the session a disservice. Yes we missed the Finfoot but we did discover a new route which revealed Mountain Wagtail, Red-winged Francolin (got you sucker...), Golden Weaver, African Cuckoo-Hawk (x3), Verreaux's Eagle (x3), Olive Bushshrike, Black Cuckooshrike and Cape Rock Thrush.

A 'push-your-luck' stop at the dam nearby Alzu's Petroport for Red Phalarope was unsuccessful and detracted none at all from our late evening cappuccino at Alzu's where the buffalo roam. A great weekend's birding and 29 'newbies' for our 800 Challenge! Total to date: 473.

Wednesday, 27 June 2012

Wakkerstroom - Chapped, cracked and chilly.

Mpumalanga's Wakkerstroom, a remnant of its former glory, is just one of a plethora of country-towns reminiscent of days long past when farming communities gathered at the common to swap stories, share anecdotes and reaffirm friendships. Failed infrastructure, a pitted complexion and baseless architecture is, at best, an obsolescence lacking in charm. Facilities are poor, accommodation is limited and entrepreneurial spirit a wistful figment of the imagination.

Excluding 'Wetlands Country House & Sheds' which is outstanding, most accommodation options are fairly basic. Birdlife's manicured facility in the Wetland Reserve is ruggedly adequate. One or two of the better B&Bs offer something similar. Even so, most could do with a coat of paint or two.. If Wetlands is fully booked, like it was this last weekend when we arrived, you might be tempted to opt for the Wakkerstroom Country Inn. At face value it's the epitome of  the classically charming village-inn. Fireplaces, ball & claw furniture, old fishing magazines and draught on tap served in pewter tankards. Don't be fooled! It's a veritable case of Dr Jekyll & Mr Hyde! A VISA-swipe reveals rooms so dastardly that it defies belief..

Bathroom - mould & grime
Ceiling - mould & grime

Bedroom - damp & peel
Garage - filth & graffiti

























Out of time; out of options and considering it was only for the night we reluctantly stayed.. If the rooms were nasty the dining area was warm & cosy. The food isn't exactly cuisine but it's well-prepared and well-presented. The locals are deliriously entertaining and the log-fire is a welcome relief from the winter chill. Before too long however, curfew is imposed (I kid you not), guests either exit or retire and the alarm activated. At 7am next day inmates are free to come and go - but not before.. It's a twilight adventure, insanely usurous, magnificently ridiculous and sadly negligent!

If the accommodation is rubbish, exploring the countryside is little short of a catharsis. Winter hues are saturated in both wetland & moor and in the hills of purple and gold. Although refreshingly chilly, the crisp air is perfect tonic for the soul. On this occasion a bout of rain settled the dust and cleansed the soul..!

Well known among the birding fraternity for its accessible grassland-specials and for its other rarities of which the localised Giant Girdled Lizard, Sapphire Bluet, Kastrolnek Widow and the very localised Wakkerstroom Geranium are just a few of many, Wakkerstroom offers the outdoorsman an unencumbered glimpse of the world as it was and it's for this reason only that many visitors return, time and time again.
Bokmakierie - one of many 

Birdlife's 'Flufftail' hide


Abandoned farmstead - more evidence of urban migration

Ossewakop a backdrop to the village at its base -  wrapped in a winter rainbow











Late afternoon is bitterly cold. Winter woolies, good company and a dram or two are welcome..